Collaborations and Releases with MotivMfg, Dehen 1920, and Merz b. Schwanen
This week, we adopt a minimalist approach to heritage goods for those looking to convey the craft through the subtleties of texture and design dictated by construction. We will smile, cry, and laugh with this release as we are pleased to introduce Merz b. Schwanen to our roster, saddened by the possibility of closing the book on our works with MotivMfg, and we have a new collaboration with Dehen 1920 that reflects our commitment to quality with a sense of satire. Regardless of changes, Division Road will continue to provide fashionable anti-fashion with an exceptionally curatorial eye and collaboration expertise to provide a wardrobe filled with heirloom-quality grails.
MotivMfg x Division Road
If the current tariff conditions persist, it’s unlikely that we will be able to continue our work with MotivMfg. While the product’s uniqueness is unquestionable at every level of design, material, and construction, and, to a degree, is priceless, we cannot rationalize the taxation. All future projects are currently on hold, and for the foreseeable future, this is likely the last release of our Motiv collaborations.
MotivMfg and Arch Support Project are our only exposure to Chinese manufacturing, including the materials we source or accept from our brands. Ironically, these rare workshops are a creative response to China's mass industrialization of disposable goods, which the tariff policies partly aim to restrict. Much like some of the other high-skill and quality manufacturing in China, these are specialized artisan goods that are not produced in the West, and there is no ability to absorb tariffs with the margins on these goods. They are priced based on input, and all the value is in there with little margin. Hence, if you have personal experience with MotivMfg or ASP, you know to get it while you can; and if not, you’d better recognize before it’s too late.
In our normal capsule collection tradition, we present a selection of our core designs, including the English Hunt Work Jacket, French Work Trousers, Swiss Army Cargos, and American Camp Shirt in new fabrications for warm-weather and all-season collectibles. Using a steelman palette to reflect the workwear backbone of the design origins — and emphasizing the logic of producing timeless goods that last — we bring you what we hope is not our last MotivMfg ensemble.
Dehen 1920 x Division Road
Since we always strive to be transparent and are in an unfiltered mood, we’ll share the full story on this collaboration project. Adidas sued Thom Browne over the designer’s iconic 4-Bar, used as a core brand mark, claiming it infringed on the 3-Stripe. Adidas lost this and several other recent lawsuits aimed at protecting their mark when not used exactly as they do, typically on the grounds that a certain number of stripes is not distinct enough. Ironically, both the three-stripe and four-bar designs originate from varsity sweaters dating back to the late 1800s, and Dehen has been producing high-school and collegiate versions long before either of these brands adopted these influential sportswear marks, or even existed.
Early Thom Browne menswear utilized several of our manufacturing brands for private label, when quality was the foundation of the menswear revival. Thus, we decided to recreate the recreation and call it the Barrister Cardigan, reflecting a possible cease-and-desist from the most recent victor in this ridiculous battle. Made as it should be for the four-figure price, this Dehen 1920 x DR Barrister Cardigan employs iconic colorways that tell the story with a fashion-forward ease, to confuse, beg the question, and then illuminate with the original “Heavy Duty Old School Truth” of Dehen.
Merz b. Schwanen
On our consideration list for some time, Merz b. Schwanen has become a popular culture icon from “The Bear. " Thankfully, a program that is more counterculture than pop, this notoriety has shed broader light on the types of authentic quality goods that still exist, many of them improved from their vintage counterparts. Merz b. is a perfect example of rejuvenation rather than mere reproduction. The journey began with a Henley discovered at a vintage market, leading to Gitta and Peter Plotnicki re-establishing an abandoned facility in the Swabian Alps, which housed authentic loopwheelers from 1889 to the 1960s and the shuttered brand, Merz b. Schwanen.
Using the finest collection of antique German Albstadt machines in the world, the Good Originals collection is a modern evolution of basic workwear garments from the 20s to the 40s and is regarded as today's best-in-class. We are pleased to introduce Merz b. Schwanen with the 206 Henley and 215 T-Shirt that use a combed organic cotton 2-Thread yarn to loopwheel a heavyweight 7.2 oz. Jersey that drapes beautifully and will wear remarkably well for years. From the banded collars to vintage stitching details, mother-of-pearl buttons, and seamless body, every element of construction and design relates to a minimalist approach to fashion and a heartfelt commitment to the good original design of ethical, reliable, everyday pieces.
