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Footwear Guide

IN GENERAL

At Division Road, we pride ourselves on our comprehensive understanding of the ins and outs of how footwear brands build their products. We are fully versed in the sizing intricacies of the footwear we carry and are pleased to assist with sizing; please feel free to Contact Us for any inquires and sizing suggestions. All feet are different, as are manufacturers, Lasts, construction methods, and a given customer’s preferred fit. With these considerations, it’s not always wise to make any hard and fast rules about sizing hand-grade footwear.

Note: Phone communication is our preferred method to serve sizing inquiries as it allows for a greater amount of detail regarding how items size and fit to ensure the best results. Email is always welcome.

WHAT IS IT?

CONSTRUCTION: RE-BUILD-ABLE FOOTWEAR

Viberg, Tricker’s, White’s, and Crockett & Jones can be defined as Re-Build-Able footwear that are constructed for decades of protection and use in industrial and outdoor conditions when cared for properly. Although these makers have adapted for the contemporary market, they continue to construct footwear with that ‘Built for Life’ ethos, using full-weight hides when possible and heavy-weight components for the insoles, midsoles, cork fills, and shanks. Rather than just performing a resole, these makers rebuild from the constructed insole down, meaning a new welt, cork, shank, midsole, and outsole depending on the construction type.

VS RE-SOLE-ABLE

Alden and the more common footwear brands that use Goodyear welting are classified as Re-Sole-Able. This is defined as builds that use lighter materials for the upper leather, insole, midsole, and cork, along with any other components, and often use reverse welting for a lighter product designed for city/town functionality. During a typical resole, the outsole is replaced and 2-3 resoles are afforded through the lifetime of the product. You can size larger in lighter builds, and sometimes a larger size is preferable, as the materials will not conform and give to the extent that a rebuildable product will.

OUR METHOD

Currently, most of the footwear we carry is considered Re-Build-Able. This level of footwear uses heavy-duty, all-natural materials that will flex and form to the foot and require a break-in period. Ideally, out of the box you want this footwear to be snug to your foot, pressured (sometimes uncomfortably), but not painful. If the fit is too large and spacious, the post break-in result will be sloppy and ergonomically unsound, as this type of footwear can weigh up to 2-3 lbs. per boot or shoe. With a correct fit, this weight is hardly noticeable and the footwear will conform to your foot to a greater degree, as designed.

OLD VS NEW SIZING GRADE

Viberg, Tricker’s, White’s and Crockett & Jones remain on a longer-standing sizing scale per their authentic legacy, which is about one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from modern/sneaker sizing. Sometimes this older grade gets referred to as “UK Sizing,” simply because this scale originated in Northampton, UK in the 1800s. Applying a broad US/UK/Euro/JP sizing conversion, however, will not achieve the desired result. Brannock devices have kept up with more modern sizing standards as that is their main use in retail, while most of our footwear remains on the older sizing scale. With the advent of sneakers, such brands were new to shoe manufacturing and made their own sizing scales that later became dominant because of major market changes in footwear preferences. This explains the deviation in sizing between common footwear and the legacy manufacturing brands that we carry.

BREAK-IN

Due to the weight of the materials used in this product, all the footwear we sell will undergo a break-in process. During the break-in process, the upper will form to your foot, the insole and fill will compress, and the midsole will adapt to your gait. With Re-Build-Able footwear, expect to gain at least a quarter (.25) of a size in terms of width and volume (not in length) as all those materials compress, form, and adapt to the shape of your foot and gait. In light of this fact, for the product to reach its full potential you will want your footwear on the snug side. The break-in process will feel different for everyone, as it depends on an individual’s foot and the footwear in question.

Alden Shoe Co.

Sizing & Widths

Alden’s in the Barrie, TruBalance, or Modified Last generally will be a half (.5) size down from a Brannock device measurement, and one (1) size down from a sneaker size. We typically carry Alden in D (Average) and E (Above Average) widths that correspond with a forefoot/ball point measurement on a Brannock. We find that Alden’s on the Barrie, TruBalance, and Modified Lasts are usually the same size as a common US boot manufacturer like Allen Edmonds and Red Wing, and a half (.5) size up from footwear on the old UK sizing grade like Viberg, Tricker's, or Crockett & Jones.

Lasts

Barrie: One of Alden’s most common casual dress shapes, the Barrie Last is orthopedic in its design with a low profile, slight almond toe, moderate waist, and a narrow heel designed to accommodate a wide variety of feet. The Alden Barrie is very comparable to a Viberg 2030 in terms of fit. We typically recommend sizing at least a half (.5) size to one (1) size down from a common sneaker, or the same size as a Red Wing or Allen Edmonds. Size the Barrie a half (.5) size down from Alden’s Plaza, Grant, Leydon, Copley, Hampton, and Aberdeen Lasts.

TruBalance: Designed as a sleek orthopedic work boot Last with a generous fit, rounded toe, and moderate profile, waist, and heel that will accommodate wider feet or those looking for a more comfortable, casual fit. The Alden TruBalance is very comparable to a Viberg 1035 in terms of fit. We typically recommend sizing at least a half (.5) size to one (1) size down from a common sneaker, or the same size as a Red Wing or Allen Edmonds. Size the TruBalance a half (.5) size down from Alden’s Plaza, Grant, Leydon, Copley, Hampton, and Aberdeen Lasts.

CROCKETT & JONES

US/UK SIZING & WIDTHS

Crockett & Jones are as listed in their stamped UK sizes but are outside of the typical US/UK conversion. Most commonly, you will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a US Brannock device measurement or US sneaker size. We find that a Crockett & Jones size usually equates to the same size or a half (.5) size down from a common Viberg or Tricker’s, and one (1) size down from US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing. We use the Crockett & Jones signature E width that is anatomically designed to accommodate a wide variety of feet from a D to EE remarkably well.

LASTS

325 Last: Created in 1995 to serve as a new standard collection Last with an elegant shape in an accommodative fit, the 325 is used on many staple Crockett & Jones shoe and boot patterns. The 325 Last is defined by its sophisticated, low profiled silhouette with an elongated almond toe and gripped forefoot that combines with a moderate volume, waist, and heel suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. With a dress shape in a functional fit, the 325 coordinates to oxfords and brogue derby’s along with country and military styled boots for more formal to utilitarian styles.

378 Last: A recent addition in 2015, the 378 Last is evolved from the 325 to be a more functional shape for patterns requiring a snugger heel, specifically certain shoe and outdoor-focused boot patterns. The 378 is defined by its sophisticated low profiled silhouette with an elongated almond toe and gripped forefoot that combines with a moderate volume and a Munson-based snug waist and heel suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. With an elegant form and functional fit, the 378 Last is ideal for providing a formal shape to function-forward country and military inspired styles. Generally, take the same size as the 325 or related Lasts.

228 Last: Inspired by military issue footwear, the 228 Last originally was designed in the 1950’s to provide outdoor-focused hiking boots with more generous proportions in the front and grip the foot in the back for a function-first shape. The 228 is defined by its elegant, rounded toe that combines with a moderate profile and accommodative forefoot and is contrasted with a Munson-based snug waist and heel suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. Refined over the years in form while maintaining a utilitarian fit, the 228 Last is ideal for providing a casual shape to country and military-inspired styles.

TRICKER’S

US/UK SIZING & WIDTHS

Our Tricker's are as listed in their stamped UK sizes but are outside of the typical US/UK conversion. Most commonly, you will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a US Brannock device measurement or US sneaker size. We find that a Tricker's UK size usually equates to the same size as a common Viberg, or a half (.5) to one (1) size down from other US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing, depending on last and fit. We commonly use the signature Fitting 5 which is roughly a North American (E) width.

LASTS

4497s Last: Created in 1937 to celebrate the coronation of King George VI, the 4497s Last’s elegant shape was uniquely designed for use on the Stow country boot, now the most famous Tricker’s Last and Pattern combination. The 4497s Last has a generous volume and width, an accommodative forefoot, waist, and heel, and a sophisticated rounded toe, making it suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. Focusing on a comfortable outdoor fit, the 4497s originally was developed for boots worn in the countryside but is now used on select shoe styles as well.

w2298 Last: Created in the 1980s as a city-styled Last, the w2298 was designed to be a shallower version of the 4497s with a subtly elongated toe and mild profile that provides a more refined silhouette. Originally designed for more casual dress-focused footwear, the w2298 Last works well for a variety of boot and shoe patterns providing a sleeker shape with a comfortable fit. This Last has a slightly narrower width in the forefoot and a snugger waist and heel than the 4497s, but easily fits wider feet. Generally, take the same size as the 4497s or related Lasts.

5402R Last: A modern styled Last with a rounded toe box and low profile that accommodates a wide variety of feet. The 5402R Last has a narrower width in the forefoot, waist, and heel than the w2298 and 4497s, but still easily fits a wide variety of feet. Generally, we suggest taking the same size as the 4497s or w2298 Lasts.

4444 Last: Created in 1937 to celebrate the coronation of King George VI, the 4444 is the widest heel-to-toe Last that we carry and has a more generous fit than the 4497s throughout. For average to wide feet, we suggest taking a half (.5) size down from your normal Tricker's size when purchasing this Last.

Viberg

US/UK SIZING & WIDTHS

Viberg is neither US nor UK sizing but it is on the older grade sizing system out of Northampton, England. Our Viberg sizes are true Viberg sizes, corresponding to how they are listed originally out of the factory and stamped on the inside. A correct Viberg size often will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a US Brannock device measurement or sneaker size, and either a half (.5) to one (1) size down from other US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing. However, this can vary depending on the Last, construction technique, leather, and pattern. For example, Wholecut and Workboot patterns may require a half (.5) size smaller than other Vibergs, depending on foot shape.

WIDTHS

Originally, all Viberg Lasts were designed with a single designated width corresponding to the shape and design of that Last to accommodate either a very specific foot type, or a wider range of feet. Recently, Viberg has graded some of the Common Lasts for multiple widths, which are used sparingly by Division Road as many Lasts in the Original width worked well as designed for a wide variety of feet. Please note the new “Standard Width” is not always the “Original Width” of many of the Common Lasts. When Division Road uses a different width than the Original, we will cite it on the product page of a particular make-up. Otherwise, all our offerings will remain on the Original widths as developed for these Lasts, noted below.

LASTS

2030 Last: The 2030 Last is the most Common Viberg Last and serves as a good comparison in the rest of our guide for size and shape. The 2030 is based on a Last used for Canadian Military Officer dress uniform footwear, with an Original and Standard (E) width to accommodate a wide variety of feet. It features an almond-shaped and elongated toe, average waist, low heel, and an overall shallow profile. The result is a sleek-looking boot that can accommodate most standard-width foot shapes. The 2030 is very comparable to an Alden Barrie D/E Last in terms of fit and we typically recommend sizing at least a half (.5) size to one (1) size down from most boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing. We also find most feet take the same size in a Viberg 2030 Last as a Tricker’s 4497s or w2298 Lasts. 

1035 Last: Developed for the Derby Shoe pattern and later adapted as a wider foot alternative to the 2030 Last while still maintaining certain aesthetics. The 1035 is a cross between the roomy and rounded toe shape of the 2040 and the low profile, moderate waist and heel of the 2030. The 1035 Last was an Original (EE) width, designed for those looking for a roomy fit and width throughout, but now is a Standard (E) width from Viberg. The 1035 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2040 Last: Based on a Munson style Last, which is anatomically designed to accommodate a wide range of foot shapes. Slightly less dramatic than the 2045, the 2040 features a wide, roomy toe box and forefoot with an above-average profile and a very slight bump toe, yet has a tapered waist and a narrow heel. Designed to accommodate almost all foot shapes, the 2040 is a great option for those who prefer a true heritage boot shape, have a wider forefoot, or are not well suited for the 2030. The 2040 Last was an Original (EE) width in the forefoot, accommodating D to EE widths with a snug and gripped waist and heel, but now is a Standard (E) width from Viberg. The 2040 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2045 Last: A traditional Munson Last, anatomically designed and developed by the US army to accommodate a wide range of foot shapes. The 2045 features a high volume, wide, and spacious forefoot with an above-average profile and slight bump toe, yet has a tapered waist and a narrow heel. Designed to accommodate almost all foot shapes, the 2045 is a great option for those who prefer a true heritage boot shape or have wider feet. The 2045 Last was an Original (EEE) width in the forefoot, accommodating D to EEE widths with a snug and gripped waist and heel, but now is a Standard (EE) width from Viberg. The 2045 is off grade from Viberg’s standard sizing and generally we recommend going a half (.5) size down from a Viberg Common Last (2030 Last).

2055 Last: Based on the traditional 2045 Munson Last, anatomically designed and developed by the US army to accommodate a wide range of foot shapes, but with a lower profile toe and forefoot. The 2055 shares the same accommodative width in the forefoot as the 2045 and the same tapered waist and narrow heel. The 2055 is a great option for those whose have wider feet or desire a sleeker version of a heritage boot shape. The 2055 comes in an Original and Standard EE width in the forefoot which accommodates D to EE widths with a snug and gripped waist and heel. The 2055 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade, and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2050 Last: Based on a vintage Argentinian riding boot Last originally developed for Viberg’s Chelsea Boot. In an average width, it features a slightly extended, narrowing toe box and a high instep that provides an accommodating fit with a sophisticated silhouette. The 2050 is exclusively used on non-lace patterns designed to form around various foot types and widths. The 2050 has an Original and Standard (D) width for narrow to average-width feet. The 2050 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2020 Last: Based on an orthopedic Last that grips and hooks with the anatomical shape of the foot to provide a comfortable fit in a sophisticated silhouette. Dressier than Viberg’s other Lasts, the 2020 features an average width forefoot with a tapered waist and snug heel that hugs and holds the foot throughout. Designed as a shapely Last for average to narrow feet where placement is key, the 2020 has an Original and Standard (D) width. The 2020 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2010 Last: Based on a vintage travel shoe, the 2010 Last is used exclusively for the wholecut Slipper, which is completely unstructured and designed to fit like a glove for your foot. The 2010 has a round toe, low profile with minimal heel drop, and is an Original and Standard (E) width in the forefoot, accommodating D to EE widths. The 2010 Last is off grade from Viberg’s standard sizing, and we recommend going one (1) size down from a Viberg Common Last (2030 Last) if planning to wear sockless or with thinner or no-show socks and a half (.5) size down if planning to wear the Slipper with socks.

310 Last: A vintage Last pulled from the work boot archives with a completely different feel and shape from all others due to a wide and generous fitting toe box, forefoot, waist, and heel with substantial volume throughout. It features a raised heel and sprung toe to provide for a natural rocking heel-to-toe gait when walking to avoid slips and trips on the worksite. While the fit is very different from other Viberg Lasts, the sizing is based on where your foot sits in the bed, rather than by width in any particular area. The 310 has an Original and Standard (E) width to accommodate a wide variety of feet. The 310 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2005 Last: Still in use today, Viberg's signature and original work boot Last for pull-on boot patterns. The 2005 has a traditional round toe shape with a high instep, moderate profile, and a high heel designed to comfortably accommodate a variety of foot shapes and widths. The 2005 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

WESCO

SIZING

Wesco boots often will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a Brannock device measurement or US sneaker size. Additionally, in our Wesco make-ups you will typically size either equally or a half (.5) size up from a common Viberg or Tricker’s, or either equally or a half (.5) size down from a Red Wing. This sizing recommendation depends heavily upon Last, construction, materials, and pattern.

LASTS

65 Last: A low-heeled work boot Last designed for Wesco’s Jobmaster pattern, used by Loggers and Lineman for its accommodating shape for various environments. It features a snub, rounded toe with a medium profile and a moderate waist and heel. While being a D width, the forefoot is on the wider side and fits more like an E+ width compared to other brands. Generally, take the same size as a 9165 Last, and equally or a half (.5) size down from Wesco’s MP 1339 Last, depending on foot width. Sizing is typically equal to a common Viberg, Tricker’s, or White’s for most feet.

9165 Last: A high-heeled work boot Last derived for Wesco’s Jobmaster, used by loggers and lineman for its accommodating shape for various environments. This Last has a rounded toe with a moderate waist and a snug heel, similar to the shape of a Munson-based last (like Viberg’s 2040/45/55). While being a D width, the forefoot is on the wider side and fits more like an E+ width in other brands. Generally, take the same size as a 65 Last, and equally or a half (.5) size down from Wesco’s MP 1339 Last, depending on foot width. Sizing is typically equal to a Viberg, Tricker’s, or White’s for most feet.

MP 1339 Last: A high-heeled last derived from Wesco’s Motorcycle Patrol Boot, which became standard issue for Officer use. This shape features a semi-squared and low-profile toe box paired with a snug waist and heel designed to be a tight boot for riding practicality. This Last has an average D width, providing for a gripped fit on standard foot shapes. As the narrowest offering from Wesco and slightly off-grade, the sizing is typically equal to, or requires a half (.5) size up from, a 65/9165 Last. Furthermore, we suggest sizing either equally or a (.5) size up from a Viberg, Tricker’s, or White’s for most feet and a half (.5) size up for a wider foot.

WHITE’S

SIZING

White's Boots often will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a Brannock device measurement or sneaker size. We find that most White's are usually the same size as a common Viberg or Tricker's and a half (.5) to one (1) size down from other US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing, depending on Last and fit. Our White’s offerings feature an all-leather and multi-panel construction, meaning they form to the wearer’s foot remarkably well with the proper pressure and break-in.

LASTS

55 Last: A more casual high-heeled logger boot Last with the moderate “Arch-Ease” arch support that offers trademark comfort without the severe break-in of "High-Arch" alternatives from White's. This Last has an elegantly rounded and roomier toe box with an accommodating forefoot and moderate profile that matches a wide variety of feet with a comfortably snug fit.

Care

CONDITIONING

For the care and conditioning of footwear at this industrial but refined level, we suggest using Saphir products as they’re the highest quality in the marketplace, with high power and tannage-specific formulas. Renovateur is specially formulated for Vegetable or Combination tannages, while Saphir Greasy Leather Cream (Oiled Leather Cuirs Gras) is designed for Chrome and Oil-based tannages like CXL, Chromepak, Oil Tan, Chamois, and the like.

We recommend a simple routine and less is more approach to leather care for these grades of hides. Even with heavy wear, conditioning a few times per year is usually all that is needed. First, give your footwear a good cleaning with a moist cloth and then dry with a clean cloth. Apply a small coat of the given Saphir conditioning cream. These creams are high-powered and formulated to maintain the naturally developed patina while restoring the natural oils and waxes in the hide. Once conditioned, brush them up with a natural Horsehair shoe/boot brush or clean polishing cloth, and the natural shine of the leather will return while your wear and patina will remain. Some tannages, climates, or conditions of use will elicit more care than others and regular maintenance will extend the life of every leather.

ROUGHOUT & SUEDES

The Suedes and Roughouts our makers use are different than others on the market. These Suedes and Roughouts are always full-grain (not split), reversed flesh-side hides and are very similar to each other as well as smooth side leathers in terms of durability, just finished differently. Simply put, Suedes have a sanded nap for a more refined finish, while the Roughouts have been brushed for a more textured surface. High quality flesh-side leathers are tanned and treated for various conditions of use and look best when they have a level of dirt and patina upon them, so we don’t suggest spraying with a waterproofing treatment when new.

For flesh-side leathers at this grade, we recommend a regular routine of wire brushing for Roughouts and nylon brushing for Suedes to renew the nap, similar to the renewing process of sanding wood. Brushing regularly will push in and pull out dirt and debris to give you a finished patina. If you really wish to preserve the original nap, Saphir Suede Spray is our recommendation. Once a season, it’s wise to renew the nap with a moderate brushing, spot cleaning if needed, and conditioning with Saphir Suede Renovateur spray to reactivate the ingredients in the tannage.

Gusseted Tongues

A gusseted tongue is designed to prevent water and debris from entering the boot through the lace eyelets or the space between the tongue and the upper part of the boot. It is identifiable by a larger tongue which is connected up the entire interior sides of the eyelet stays. Before lacing up your boots, fold the gusset tongue over into a smooth "S" shape, and hold the tongue in this position while you lace up the boots. Below is a step-by-step picture guide on how to properly do so, to ensure a comfortable and proper fit.

  1. Division Road Gusseted Tongues
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  3. Division Road Gusseted Tongues
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  5. Division Road Gusseted Tongues
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  8. Division Road Gusseted Tongues