White's, Tricker's, Crockett & Jones, and Viberg can be defined as Re-Build-Able footwear that are constructed for decades of protection and use in industrial and outdoor conditions when cared for properly. Although these makers have adapted for the contemporary market, they continue to construct footwear with that ‘Built for Life’ ethos, using full-weight hides when possible and heavy-weight components for the insoles, midsoles, cork fills, and shanks. Rather than just performing a resole, these makers rebuild from the constructed insole down, meaning a new welt, cork, shank, midsole, and outsole depending on the construction type.

VS RE-SOLE-ABLE

Alden and the more common footwear brands that use Goodyear welting are classified as Re-Sole-Able. This is defined as builds that use lighter materials for the upper leather, insole, midsole, and cork, along with any other components, and often use reverse welting for a lighter product designed for city/town functionality. During a typical resole, the outsole is replaced and 2-3 resoles are afforded through the lifetime of the product. You can size larger in lighter builds, and sometimes a larger size is preferable, as the materials will not conform and give to the extent that a rebuildable product will.

Currently, most of the footwear we carry is considered Re-Build-Able. This level of footwear uses heavy-duty, all-natural materials that will flex and form to the foot and require a break-in period. Ideally, out of the box you want this footwear to be snug to your foot, pressured (sometimes uncomfortably), but not painful. If the fit is too large and spacious, the post break-in result will be sloppy and ergonomically unsound, as this type of footwear can weigh up to 2-3 lbs. per boot or shoe. With a correct fit, this weight is hardly noticeable and the footwear will conform to your foot to a greater degree, as designed.

White's, Tricker's, Crockett & Jones, and Viberg remain on a longer-standing sizing scale per their authentic legacy, which is about one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from modern/sneaker sizing. Sometimes this older grade gets referred to as “UK Sizing,” simply because this scale originated in Northampton, UK in the 1800s. Applying a broad US/UK/Euro/JP sizing conversion, however, will not achieve the desired result. Brannock devices have kept up with more modern sizing standards as that is their main use in retail, while most of our footwear remains on the older sizing scale. With the advent of sneakers, such brands were new to shoe manufacturing and made their own sizing scales that later became dominant because of major market changes in footwear preferences. This explains the deviation in sizing between common footwear and the legacy manufacturing brands that we carry.

Due to the weight of the materials used in this product, all the footwear we sell will undergo a break-in process. During the break-in process, the upper will form to your foot, the insole and fill will compress, and the midsole will adapt to your gait. With Re-Build-Able footwear, expect to gain at least a quarter (.25) of a size in terms of width and volume (not in length) as all those materials compress, form, and adapt to the shape of your foot and gait. In light of this fact, for the product to reach its full potential you will want your footwear onthe snug side. The break-in process will feel different for everyone, as it depends on an individual’s foot and the footwear in question.

Sizing

Arch Support Project is based on the full-size European system. We suggest referring to the chart below to convert a common US Sneaker Size (Nike, New Balance, Adidas) to the Arch Support Project EU Size. For wider feet, a comfort-based fit, or if between sizes, go to the next size up and use the Cork Insert between the constructed insole and Padded Footbed to adjust size and volume.

US Sneaker = Euro Size Conversion

7 / 7.5 = 40 | 8 / 8.5 = 41 | 9 / 9.5 = 42 | 10 / 10.5 = 43 | 11 / 11.5 = 44 | 12 / 12.5 = 45 | 13 / 13.5 = 46

Lasts

ASP Last: This signature brand Last is based on a military Munson Last and is redesigned with modern proportions and wholecut, single-hide construction. It’s defined by a generous forefoot, moderate waist, and narrow heel. The size is easily adjustable to accommodate fit preferences, widths, and volume, with a cork insert that allows any Arch Support Project to correspond to various feet (C-EE).

US/UK SIZING & WIDTHS

Crockett & Jones are as listed in their stamped UK sizes but are outside of the typical US/UK conversion. Most commonly, you will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a US Brannock device measurement or US sneaker size. We find that a Crockett & Jones size usually equates to the same size or a half (.5) size down from a common Viberg or Tricker’s, and one (1) size down from US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing. We use the Crockett & Jones signature E width that is anatomically designed to accommodate a wide variety of feet from a D to EE remarkably well.

Lasts

325 Last: Created in 1995 to serve as a new standard collection Last with an elegant shape in an accommodative fit, the 325 is used on many staple Crockett & Jones shoe and boot patterns. The 325 Last is defined by its sophisticated, low profiled silhouette with an elongated almond toe and gripped forefoot that combines with a moderate volume, waist, and heel suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. With a dress shape in a functional fit, the 325 coordinates to oxfords and brogue derby’s along with country and military styled boots for more formal to utilitarian styles.

365 Last: Created in 2009 to serve as a main collection Last, the round toe shape in an accommodative fit lends itself to Crockett & Jones’ higher country boot patterns and is commonly associated to the Islay brogue boot. The 365 Last is defined by its generous profile, toe box, and forefoot while maintaining a sleek silhouette with a moderately gripped waist and heel suitable for a wide variety of feet once the correct size is obtained. With a sophisticated shape and function-forward fit, the 365 coordinates to refined, casual country and military styled boots.

375 Last: A recent evolution of the signature 325 Last, the 375 has an elegant shape for casual-dress styles with an anatomically focused structure designed for a comfortably gripped fit. The 375 Last is defined by a sophisticated, mid-profiled silhouette with a sleekly rounded almond toe and accommodative forefoot and volume that combines with a narrow waist and heel, making it suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. With a functional fit and dress shape, the 375 coordinates to formal oxfords and military styled boots alike.

378 Last: A recent addition in 2015, the 378 Last is evolved from the 325 to be a more functional shape for patterns requiring a snugger heel, specifically certain shoe and outdoor-focused boot patterns. The 378 is defined by its sophisticated low profiled silhouette with an elongated almond toe and gripped forefoot that combines with a moderate volume and a Munson-based snug waist and heel suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. With an elegant form and functional fit, the 378 Last is ideal for providing a formal shape to function-forward country and military inspired styles. Generally, take the same size as the 325 or related Lasts.

228 Last: Inspired by military issue footwear, the 228 Last originally was designed in the 1950’s to provide outdoor-focused hiking boots with more generous proportions in the front and grip the foot in the back for a function-first shape. The 228 is defined by its elegant, rounded toe that combines with a moderate profile and accommodative forefoot and is contrasted with a Munson-based snug waist and heel suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. Refined over the years in form while maintaining a utilitarian fit, the 228 Last is ideal for providing a casual shape to country and military-inspired styles.

376 Last: Specifically developed for non-lace loafer and slipper patterns, the 376 has an elegant, casual shape in an anatomically focused and comfortably gripped design to fit like a glove to your foot. The 376 Last is defined by a sophisticated, high walled profile and sleekly rounded toe and accommodative forefoot that combines with a narrow waist and heel, making it suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. With a dress-casual shape and functional design, the 376 is one of the finest non-lace Lasts that will conform to the foot with a casual elegance.

Sizing

EasyMoc uses vintage moccasin Lasts and sizing is consistently one (1) size down from a common US sneaker like Nike or New Balance for a snug fit that will conform to an average (D-E) width foot, and a half (.5) size down for a roomy, comfort-based fit or for wider feet (E-EE). We find that EasyMoc usually is the same size as a common US boot/shoe manufacturer like Alden, Allen Edmonds and Red Wing, and a half (.5) size to one (1) size up based off fit preferences from footwear on the old UK sizing grade like Viberg, Tricker's, White's, and Crockett & Jones.

Lasts

EasyMoc Last: This signature Last to the brand comes from an adapted LL Bean Last from the 70's that was built specifically for genuine hand sewn moccasins. It’s defined by a higher sidewall and an exaggerated, radiused edge to wrap the vamp leather and hand sew the plug to the toe. Made in a D width that accommodates C-EE width feet, this Last has been intentionally revised to correspond to modern, comfort-first fit preferences.

US/UK SIZING & WIDTHS

Our Tricker's are as listed in their stamped UK sizes but are outside of the typical US/UK conversion. Most commonly, you will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a US Brannock device measurement or US sneaker size. We find that a Tricker's UK size usually equates to the same size as a common Viberg, or a half (.5) to one (1) size down from other US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing, depending on last and fit. We commonly use the signature Fitting 5 which is roughly a North American (E) width.

Lasts

4497s Last: Created in 1937 to celebrate the coronation of King George VI, the 4497s Last’s elegant shape was uniquely designed for use on the Stow country boot, now the most famous Tricker’s Last and Pattern combination. The 4497s Last has a generous volume and width, an accommodative forefoot, waist, and heel, and a sophisticated rounded toe, making it suitable for most feet once the correct size is obtained. Focusing on a comfortable outdoor fit, the 4497s originally was developed for boots worn in the countryside but is now used on select shoe styles as well.

w2298 Last: Created in the 1980s as a city-styled Last, the w2298 was designed to be a shallower version of the 4497s with a subtly elongated toe and mild profile that provides a more refined silhouette. Originally designed for more casual dress-focused footwear, the w2298 Last works well for a variety of boot and shoe patterns providing a sleeker shape with a comfortable fit. This Last has a slightly narrower width in the forefoot and a snugger waist and heel than the 4497s, but easily fits wider feet. Generally, take the same size as the 4497s or related Lasts.

5402R Last: A modern styled Last with a rounded toe box and low profile that accommodates a wide variety of feet. The 5402R Last has a narrower width in the forefoot, waist, and heel than the w2298 and 4497s, but still easily fits a wide variety of feet. For wider feet or a more comfortable fit, consider taking a half (.5) size up from the Tricker's Common Last (4497s).

4444 Last: Created in 1937 to celebrate the coronation of King George VI, the 4444 is the widest heel-to-toe Last that we carry and has a more generous fit than the 4497s throughout. For average to wide feet, we suggest taking a half (.5) size down from your normal Tricker's size when purchasing this Last.

US/UK SIZING & WIDTHS

Viberg is neither US nor UK sizing, but it is on Northampton, England's older grade sizing system. Our Viberg sizes are true Viberg sizes, corresponding to how they are produced and stamped at the factory. A correct Viberg size often will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a US Brannock device measurement or sneaker size, and either a half (.5) to one (1) size down from other US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing. However, this can vary depending on the Last, construction technique, leather, and pattern. For example, Wholecut and Workboot patterns may require a half (.5) size smaller than other Vibergs, depending on foot shape.

WIDTHS

Originally, all Viberg Lasts were designed with a single designated width corresponding to the shape and design of that Last to accommodate either a particular foot type, or a more comprehensive range of feet. Recently, Viberg has graded some of the Common Lasts for multiple widths, and the new “Standard Width” is not always the “Original Width” of several Common Lasts. When Division Road uses a different width than the Standard, we will cite it on the product page of a particular make-up. Otherwise, all our offerings will remain on the Standard widths as noted below.

Lasts

2030 Last: The 2030 Last is the most Common Viberg Last and serves as a good comparison in the rest of our guide for size and shape. The 2030 is based on a Last used for Canadian Military Officer dress uniform footwear, with an Original and Standard (E) width to accommodate a wide variety of feet. It features an almond-shaped and elongated toe, an average waist, a low heel, and an overall shallow profile. The result is a sleek-looking boot that can accommodate most feet. The 2030 is very comparable to an Alden Barrie D/E Last in terms of fit, and we typically recommend sizing at least a half (.5) size to one (1) size down from most boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing. We also find most feet take the same size in a Viberg 2030 Last as a Tricker’s 4497s or w2298 Lasts.

1035 Last: Developed for the Derby Shoe pattern and later adapted as a wider foot alternative to the 2030 Last while maintaining certain aesthetics. The 1035 is a cross between the roomy and rounded toe box of the 2040 and the low profile, moderate waist, and moderate heel of the 2030. The 1035 Last was an Original (EE) width designed for those looking for a roomy fit and width throughout, and is now a Standard (E) width accommodating D to E+ widths. The 1035 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2040 Last: Based on a Munson style Last, anatomically designed to accommodate a wide range of foot shapes. Slightly less dramatic than the 2045, the 2040 features a wide, roomy toe box and forefoot with an above-average profile and a very slight bump toe, yet has a tapered waist and a narrow heel. Designed to accommodate almost all foot shapes, the 2040 is an excellent option for those who prefer a true heritage boot shape, have a wider forefoot, or are not well suited for the 2030. The 2040 Last was an Original (EE) width in the forefoot with a snug gripped waist and heel, and now is a Standard (E) width, accommodating C to E+ widths. The 2040 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2045 Last: A traditional Munson Last, anatomically designed and developed by the US Army to accommodate a wide range of foot shapes. The 2045 features a high volume, broad, spacious forefoot with an above-average profile and slight bump toe, with a tapered waist and a narrow heel. Designed to accommodate almost all foot shapes, the 2045 is an excellent option for those who prefer a true heritage boot shape or have wider feet. The 2045 Last is an Original and Standard (EEE) width in the forefoot with a snug and gripped waist and heel, accommodating D to EEE widths. The 2045 is off-grade from Viberg’s standard sizing, and generally, we recommend going a half (.5) size down from a Viberg Common Last (2030 Last).

2055 Last: Based on the traditional 2045 Munson Last, anatomically designed and developed by the US Army to accommodate a wide range of foot shapes, but with a lower profile toe and forefoot. The 2055 shares the same accommodative width in the forefoot as the 2045 and has a tapered waist and narrow heel. The 2055 is an excellent option for those with wider feet or desire a sleeker version of a heritage boot shape. The 2055 comes in an Original and Standard (EE) width in the forefoot with a snug and gripped waist and heel, accommodating D to EE widths. The 2055 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

310 Last: A vintage Last pulled from the work boot archives with a completely different feel and shape from all others due to a broad and generous fitting toe box, forefoot, waist, and heel with substantial volume throughout. It features a raised heel and sprung toe to provide a natural rocking heel-to-toe gait when walking to avoid slipping and tripping on worksites. While the fit is very different from other Viberg Lasts, the sizing is based on where your foot sits in the bed, rather than by width in any particular area. The 310 Last was an Original (EE) width, and now is a Standard (E) width in the forefoot with a more gripped waist and heel, accommodating D to EE widths. The 310 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2020 Last: Based on an orthopedic Last that grips and hooks with the anatomical shape of the foot to provide a comfortable fit in a sophisticated silhouette. Dressier than Viberg’s other Lasts, the 2020 features an average-width forefoot with a tapered waist and snug heel that hugs and holds the foot throughout. Designed as a shapely Last for average to narrow feet where placement is critical, the 2020 has an Original and Standard (D) width, accommodating C to E widths. The 2020 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2050 Last: Based on a vintage Argentinian riding boot Last originally developed for Viberg’s Chelsea Boot. In an average width, it features a slightly extended, narrow toe box and a high instep that provides an accommodating fit with a sophisticated silhouette. The 2050 is exclusively used on non-lace patterns designed to form around various foot types and widths. The 2050 has an Original and Standard (D) width, accommodating C to E widths. The 2050 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size.

2010 Last: Based on a vintage travel shoe, the 2010 Last is used exclusively for the wholecut Slipper, which is entirely unstructured and designed to fit like a glove for your foot. The 2010 has a round toe, low profile with minimal heel drop, and is an Original and Standard (E) width in the forefoot, accommodating D to EE widths. The 2010 Last is off-grade from Viberg’s standard sizing, and we recommend going one (1) size down from a Viberg Common Last (2030 Last) if planning to wear sockless or with thinner or no-show socks and a half (.5) size down if planning to wear the Slipper with socks.

6478 Last: Designed to be Viberg’s most formal style with an anatomical shape that contours to the foot for a sleekly sophisticated dress silhouette. The 6478 Last features an elongated and slightly sprung almond toe, an average-width forefoot with a narrow waist, and a snug heel that grips the foot throughout. Designed as a Last for average to narrow feet where placement is critical, the 6478 has an Original and Standard (E) width, accommodating C to E widths. The 6478 is slightly off-grade from Viberg’s standard sizing — consider taking the larger size of your range in Viberg, or taking a half (.5) size up from a Viberg Common Last (2030 Last).

1003 Last: Developed exclusively for the Sneaker as an accommodating and balanced functional athletic form with a casual and sleek aesthetic. The 1003 Last is a generous (D) width with a moderate profile and volume throughout, accommodating C to EE widths with a fully removable footbed that allows for more volume and width to be gained. The 1003 is considered a Viberg Common Last on their standard grade and is consistent to a 2030 Last size. For a snug fit, go with the smaller of your range or a half (.5) size down from a Viberg Common Last (2030 Last).

Sizing

White's Boots often will be one (1) to one-and-a-half (1.5) sizes down from a Brannock device measurement or sneaker size. We find that most White's are usually the same size as a common Viberg or Tricker's and a half (.5) to one (1) size down from other US boot manufacturers like Alden or Red Wing, depending on Last and fit. Our White’s offerings feature an all-leather and multi-panel construction, meaning they form to the wearer’s foot remarkably well with the proper pressure and break-in.

Lasts

55 Last (D Width): A more casual high-heeled logger boot Last with the moderate “Arch-Ease” arch support that offers trademark comfort without the severe break-in of "High-Arch" alternatives from White's. This Last has an elegantly rounded and roomier toe box with an accommodating forefoot, combined with a moderate profile, waist, and heel that matches a wide variety of feet (D-EE) with a comfortably snug fit.

5050 Last (E Width): A new development that takes the sleek, military dress toe shape design of the MP Last and combines it with the moderate profile and heel height of the “Arch-Ease” 55 Last for a modern version of a fully functional work boot. Offered exclusively in an E Width, the 5050 Last has a classic almond toe, moderate profile, and generous forefoot, with a moderate waist and heel that matches a wide variety of feet (D-EE) with a comfortably snug fit.

MP Last (E Width): A military dress shape with an orthopedic design that allows for a sophisticated modern form with a lower heel and a more subtle leather shank and arch structure indicative of a White’s, while having the trademark support of a fully functional boot. Offered exclusively in an E Width, the MP Last has a classic almond toe, low profile, and accommodating forefoot, with a narrowed waist and heel that corresponds to a variety of feet (D-E).

C461 (E Width): An archived logging boot Last designed by Buffalo Shoe Company with a sprung, upturned toe shape and White’s moderate “Arch-Ease” support to allow the workman to traverse the forest floor and avoid tripping on low debris. Offered exclusively in an E Width, the C461 Last has a rounded vintage toe, accommodating forefoot, and a moderate profile, waist, and heel that matches a wide variety of feet (D-EE) with a comfortably snug fit.

Northwest Last (E Width): Designed as a low-heeled alternative to the 55 Last, the Northwest is a modern and elegantly shaped, low-heeled work boot Last with a subtle leather shank and arch structure, while having the trademark support of a fully functional boot. Offered exclusively in an E Width, the Northwest Last has a classic rounded toe, low-moderate profile, and generous forefoot, with a moderate waist and heel that matches a wide variety of feet (D-E+) with a comfortably snug fit.

CONDITIONING

For the care and conditioning of footwear at this industrial but refined level, we suggest using Saphir products as they’re the highest quality in the marketplace, with high power and tannage-specific formulas. Renovateur is specially formulated for Vegetable or Combination tannages, while Saphir Greasy Leather Cream (Oiled Leather Cuirs Gras) is designed for Chrome and Oil-based tannages like CXL, Chromepak, Oil Tan, Chamois, and the like.

We recommend a simple routine and less is more approach to leather care for these grades of hides. Even with heavy wear, conditioning a few times per year is usually all that is needed. First, give your footwear a good cleaning with a moist cloth and then dry with a clean cloth. Apply a small coat of the given Saphir conditioning cream. These creams are high-powered and formulated to maintain the naturally developed patina while restoring the natural oils and waxes in the hide. Once conditioned, brush them up with a natural Horsehair shoe/boot brush or clean polishing cloth, and the natural shine of the leather will return while your wear and patina will remain. Some tannages, climates, or conditions of use will elicit more care than others and regular maintenance will extend the life of every leather.

The Suedes and Roughouts our makers use are different than others on the market. These Suedes and Roughouts are always full-grain (not split), reversed flesh-side hides and are very similar to each other as well as smooth side leathers in terms of durability, just finished differently. Simply put, Suedes have a sanded nap for a more refined finish, while the Roughouts have been brushed for a more textured surface. High quality flesh-side leathers are tanned and treated for various conditions of use and look best when they have a level of dirt and patina upon them, so we don’t suggest spraying with a waterproofing treatment when new.

For flesh-side leathers at this grade, we recommend a regular routine of wire brushing for Roughouts and nylon brushing for Suedes to renew the nap, similar to the renewing process of sanding wood. Brushing regularly will push in and pull out dirt and debris to give you a finished patina. If you really wish to preserve the original nap, Saphir Suede Spray is our recommendation. Once a season, it’s wise to renew the nap with a moderate brushing, spot cleaning if needed, and conditioning with Saphir Suede Renovateur spray to reactivate the ingredients in the tannage.

A gusseted tongue is designed to prevent water and debris from entering the boot through the lace eyelets or the space between the tongue and the upper part of the boot. It is identifiable by a larger tongue which is connected up the entire interior sides of the eyelet stays. Before lacing up your boots, fold the gusset tongue over into a smooth "S" shape, and hold the tongue in this position while you lace up the boots. Below is a step-by-step picture guide on how to properly do so, to ensure a comfortable and proper fit.