We only add brands with the utmost care, and this week we are pleased to pair the introduction of an inspirational French garment creator with our mainstay inventive Canadian footwear crafter in an autumn palette and theme that embodies the artist with natural materials and sophisticated silhouettes. This international duo of De Bonne Facture and Viberg represents innovation through honoring the past by staying true to the ethos of making the best possible goods by starting at the fiber, hide, or component produced in the most natural ways by investigating the impacts of sourcing and adapting methods accordingly, while retaining old world manufacturing techniques and styles to remain timeless in all regards. So, whether venturing to a Parisian Café to watch the world, or a backwoods barn in East Hampton to create a body of work and on to the Museum of Modern to see the results, this release embodies a natural creativity, finding form through skilled craft.
Simply, the ethos is in the name ‘de bonne facture,’ a French expression describing a way of designing and making things not only well, but holistically from design to manufacturing with an integrity from fiber to fit. Launched last decade, Déborah Sitbon Neuberg has created something special, transparent, and modern all while remaining true to tradition with an artisanal nature that is reflected in each piece of her collections. De Bonne Facture looks at garments as an extension of nature from the agricultural aspects of fiber, organic components used in production, and the sheep’s wool as a reflection of the landscapes in which these components are harvested. Neubuerg’s design philosophy pays tribute to these local cultures of production through craftsmanship, while also taking inspirations from eras and periods of the past and infusing those into a dialogue about each piece.
Central to the brand is a focus on sustainability and production through consistently seeking better ways to limit footprint and making a garment as long lasting as possible. Refreshingly, DBF takes this involved and firm commitment to produce garments honorably in the current climate and environmental reality in authentic ways, rather than green-washing and marketing campaigns. As timeless style begins at production, De Bonne Facture exclusively utilizes specialist, regional Ateliers throughout France and Italy to ensure the natural soul of the garment is maintained from the land to the production. Finally, this atelier crafted collection is inspired by the electric, elegant style of artists like Jean Michel Basquiat, and infuses undyed Camel and Sheep’s wool and natural components with traditional menswear fabrics like Harris Tweed in a subtly sophisticated yet vibrantly vintage palette wherein each piece is special, unique, and utterly covetable.
Viberg has transitioned into developing full-fledged seasonal collections true to their hallmarked formula of being distinct, simple, and strong. These collections are based around limited batch leathers to produce small ranges that relate to the complete collection in terms of palette, style, and use to create collectable and storied staples. For a FW20 representation, we bring you the Dark Rubber Dublin Chelsea Boot as a solid standing style that combines one of our favorite tannages to the masterful wholecut pattern that molds and conforms to the foot with a tailored refinement provided by natural materials and next-level craftsmanship. The vegetable tanned Dublin by Horween uses Cordovan ingredients and processes to yield a high character leather that develops a rich patina afforded by an industrial sturdiness and rugged disposition. Coming with the sophisticated riding boot 2050 Last, an outdoor ready natural leather 360 storm welt and midsole, and Goodyear welted with a Dainite sole, the result is a timeless Chelsea Boot crafted to endure the city, hills, and world with a graceful grit.