Introducing Samurai and Releases from ts(s), Momotaro, and Chup

This week, we are focusing on Japanese producers that re-engineer garments with a blend of traditional techniques and materials while advancing each design element to create inspirational and unique pieces in every regard. An introduction of Samurai sets the tone of evolved heritage that pairs with Suzuki’s ts(s) directional take on classical menswear, Momotaro’s focus on fabric to fit, and CHUP’s captivating footwear accompaniments. There is an interesting development of Americana going east to Japan, where it’s honored and honed before returning west to be regarded as the best workwear-level product in the world. While we in the States have moved away from the styles, techniques, and machinery that defined our identity, the Japanese have successfully adopted, preserved, and enhanced denim, workwear, western wear, and utilitarian casualwear. Even the classic vertical production model, which American brands originally championed—from fabric to finished garment—is now predominantly followed by Japan’s emerging manufacturers, who focus on ensuring quality and ultimately delivering greater value. This assembly of Japan’s cult makers represents excellence from fiber through form.

Samurai

We’re pleased to be a rare resource for Samurai jeans, as Tohru Nogami’s vision of making the pieces others cannot has come to fruition. For over 25 years, this maker has been at the center of collectible craft, from leading the weight wars in denim to pioneering looming with antique machines and slub yarn engineering. In recent years, Samurai has shifted focus to further this mission across other categories and even restored an ancient strain of cotton to Japan’s small agricultural landscape to work towards a wholly vertically made product.

Identified by the uniqueness of the garment, Samurai infuses iconography of the forgone warriors with silver and red lamé selvedge lines to convey blood upon razor-sharp swords, leather patches depicting an intense battle of the famous Musashi and Kojiro, and Japanese kamon symbols throughout trims reflecting feudal times. This collection of rarities, from distinguished denim to innovative shirting developments, brings the new and old together in unison, like the brand.

ts(s)

For another creator that develops fabric to create form, ts(s) brings us the completion of the season with pieces that combine tailoring and workwear for something entirely new across two exclusive fabric developments. The Glen Plaid Wool Blend Cloth combines suiting and the outdoors with a yarn-dyed weave with a luxurious finish, elegant drape, and enhanced durability.

The Garment Dye Stretch Moleskin Twill is fashioned for a lived-in appeal and future evolutions in a dutiful cloth with a brushed moleskin interior and textured twill woven exterior. With an assembly of outerwear, suiting separates, and everyday essentials, this collection from ts(s) epitomizes Japan’s best at taking traditional styles to the next level of street chic.

Momotaro

From a proven formula of fiber sourcing from Zimbabwe’s best organic hand-cultivated cotton to looming in-house under the Japan Blue-Collect Mills umbrella for proprietary fabrics that are considered consistent and cult icons to developing fits and pieces with a unique point of view, Momotaro utilizes every facet of their capability and know-how.

With a tight selection of limited seasonal releases using exclusive indigo-dyed, jacquard-loomed sashiko cloth, we have the Wool Weft Harrington and two Work Shirts that are versatile novelties begging to be worn. These high-style project pieces with patina potential are complemented with a small restock of the 18 oz. Indigo warp and undyed Beige weft 0405 High Tapered.

CHUP

As our last CHUP release of the season, the Wabisabi sock comes in an easily coordinated palette in the signature Cotton-Dralon blended yarn. Most of CHUP’s inspirational stories come from across the globe, but this collection is a native reflection of Wabi-Sabi communicating nature’s simple imperfections and impermanence. The perfect collectible complement to our footwear, these expertly and painstakingly knit socks are made on stocking frame machines that maintain an old-world, limited production approach. CHUP inspires ensembles rather than just accompaniments by sourcing the best materials for refined yarns produced with meticulous construction methods.