This week, we have a story about the design principles and production practices discarded by many of today's fashion houses yet carried on by De Bonne Facture and MotivMfg, who uphold tradition by making premium garments with a considered sense of artistry — what true luxury was and should be about. DBF and Motiv are as deliberate with the craft as it gets — sourcing the highest quality raw materials and fibers for use in specific fabric developments and textile production, creating custom trims and detailing, developing a collection, designing a pattern, and crafting a garment. By focusing on these oft-forgotten fundamentals in fashion, these two brands produce pieces that are at once progressive and timeless, with a quality imperative that reinforces sustainability through longevity.
Since her time at Hermès, Déborah Sitbon Neuberg aspired to make the principles of artisan production and luxury more accessible. With that mission in mind and a vintage-inspired French contemporary style, De Bonne Facture was born. Much like any fashion designer should, Déborah formulates a seasonal theme for her collections. In keeping with the tradition of iconic designers of the past, those collections tend to be inspirations drawn from a combination of abstruse references in art, architecture, theater, film, or music. Often, these themes are as richly enigmatic as Deb herself — a testament to her inquisitive and creative mind that engages a deeper understanding of craft, longevity, sustainability, and nature, translated into luxury goods that are definitively De Bonne. This collection represents some of her core patterns refined through deep dives into material production that resulted in limiting environmental harm and contaminants by using undyed yarns, organic cotton, and waterproof Ventile free of Perfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs) in pieces that wed nature and art through palette and design.
We immediately knew Daniel Gu was approaching garment design and construction differently when we saw his first collection years ago. The impressive level of integrated detailing, complicated patterns, and anatomical designs is unparalleled outside of pieces we’ve experienced from the world’s best designers. With the ability to coalesce styles, eras, and inspirations into collections and garments that are both futuristic yet century-old, Gu applies design and production methods reserved only for the finest tailoring shops or couture houses. From jacketing and outerwear to trousers, everything has a compelling story told through complex draping and subsequent draft pattern making to yield stunning and classically founded pieces. As intended, each garment springs to life once on body and when a MotivMfg piece is selected and sized properly, very few can debate the immense value actualized by material quality, functional design, and precise craftsmanship.