Made in the New East by ways of the Old West
Made in China...what? Yes! We hope through our documentation and certification, this contradiction to the Division Road regulations around sourcing goods in fact proves the rule. Looking through our North American, European, and Japanese-centric lens, this “crime” against heritage is in reality about preserving it. The simple fact is we’re making an exception, which you'll soon discover is due to the fact that this brand is exceptional and working with MotivMfg actually is not outside of our position, but rather reinforces it. In that vein, we are honored to debut this Made in China MOTIV collaboration project and exclusive partnership with MotivMfg, launched by expert luxury heritage retailer Samuel Hsin Wei and phenom designer Daniel Gu that celebrates turn-of-the-century craftsmanship with a refined vision from industrial-era tailoring and military garments from around the globe.
Our clients, partners, and market as a whole should be well familiar with our baseline edicts to source goods only from developed nations: The United States, Canada, Europe and Japan, specifically. The reasons for this Country of Origin precondition aren’t about nationalism or a requisite of quality, as there are plenty of mediocre products in the US along with our other regional preferences. Rather, it’s about a minimum standard of production, environmental regulations, labor practices, and transparency that are almost impossible to verify through many developing nation manufacturers. From years in the industry and seeing the suspect practices throughout many popular outsourcing destinations, we refuse to engage goods made in those countries.
Beyond this baseline, we look for brands that are manufacturers first, generally producing goods under one roof, using proven old-world hand-grade construction techniques in the best materials available. Any modernization in manufacturing is only instituted to serve as an improvement that honors the soul and longevity of the craft. These are firm lines that we will never compromise. While the United States and Western Europe have lost many of thier garment and footwear workmanship traditions, the opportunity exists for an inventive perspective on trades that have been discarded by our cultures in favor of the mass littering of outsourced and branded imports, designed and made with planned obsolescence that dominate the market today.
Division Road’s “Western” imperative is about presenting the best of historically inspired pieces through the incorporation of impeccable craftsmanship using the highest quality durable materials in order to provide new classical goods that remain timeless while being built for longevity. Interestingly, MotivMfg is authentically as Western as it gets: made in China with an ethos that more closely resembles the expertise of 19-20th century bespoke European tailoring houses than even that of Savile Row today. Further, with a deep study and understanding of vintage suiting and military garments of the 1900’s infused into designs through the eyes of some of the most knowledgeable in the business, MotivMfg presents styled garments that are unparalleled.
A brainchild project of Radiance Blue, Loft 6, and Army Gym retailer Samuel Wei in partnership with the tailoring-trained phenom designer Daniel Gu, MotivMfg is a re-establishment of bespoke garment workshop studios where designs, patterns, and complete production are all accomplished under one roof. In order to re-create and evolve vintage inspirations, they use only the best materials from the most traditional yet innovative mills in Japan and Europe that focus on the authenticity of natural fibers when finished in various cutting-edge methods to ensure performance in all conditions. From wool weavers and fustian makers in England and Scotland, top cotton mills in Japan and the best narrow loom denim weavers and linen mills in Asia, along with reproduced and enhanced hardware produced through elaborate processes, all of the inputs of MotivMfg garments follow and fit a precise ethos of exceptionalism.
Shepherding in a new era in heritage by using a couture design process along with workshop production, Daniel Gu has created an infusion of several disciplines that has resulted in unmatched results. Starting with historical motivations and conceptualizing through illustrations, Gu then works through the process by a drape and baste on human forms to create inspired and intuitive designs. He then proceeds to the drafting table using 1920’s European methods to create patterns, with final refinements taking place on-figure once again as a completely anatomical garment comes to fruition. As the final step in development rather than the beginning, the complicated and completed patterns are created from this involved process that dictates intricate cutting and sewing steps for production. All in the same MotivMfg studio, a production team of European-trained sample makers produce final garments with elevated skills in adapting patterns throughout the construction process with this 3D ethos of design. From sketch through garment completion, everything takes place in the best and only studio of its kind.
Brett Viberg, Samuel Wei, and Jason Pecarich have been close and like-minded in many regards, mainly in our efforts to preserve the craft in which we create and represent to our fullest capabilities. With the shared tenet of being experts to the highest degree possible while evolving our niche, style, and production through our individual ventures, there has always been a connection between Division Road, Viberg, and MotivMfg. All three of these banded renegades are on the front lines of the heritage industry, with an obsession of historical understanding about our business and trades and have long shared our individual and potential developments on the horizon. It seemed ridiculous that our position would prohibit us from presenting a product, category, and design better than what we’re doing in the countries that created and crafted these types of garments for centuries. Hence, as vigilante veterans of the business, we designed this project to tell a story about being outside the law, and breaking with tradition in order to retain it.
Starting at footwear first per usual, and to cement the Viberg connection, we allocated our exclusive Shelby Sharp for a Shinki Natural Oiled Horsebutt version from Japan’s best in this specialty hide discipline, with a period-appropriate natural leather 360 storm welt and stacked leather sole. As suit separates, we worked on a redefined Hunt Work Jacket inspired by industrial-era Sack Jacket tailoring popularized during the 1920’s, and English Convertible pleated trousers that were designed to be worn with a belt, suspenders, or neither for various duties and conditions. Sourcing fabric from the historic mills in the UK, these pieces are derived from the old country for the new age with a Marling & Evans undyed completely natural wool development in the true shear color, and a heavy duty and wale Brisbane Moss Corduroy. Moving into military inspired outerwear from France and western Europe, we designed an F-2 Fatigue Jacket produced in the famous bullet and tear proof Covert Cloth from Lovat Mills in an anatomical design that will mold to the body of any commanding wearer. In the most extensive piece of the collection, the French Naval Flight Coat is a 3-in-1 masterpiece that combines elements from leather flight jackets, naval peacoats, and military motor patrol pieces. In Scotland’s venerable Halley Stevenson Dry Waxed Military Canvas for the shell portion, and a duck down liner in Japan’s renowned Shibaya Mills Salt Shrunk Rip-stop Nylon, this piece is an all-season high-ranking officer of design and craftsmanship that exemplifies the MOTIV ethos. All of these pieces as assembled, convey that this project honors the traditional tenets of heritage while simultaneously evolving it.
So, as bootleggers of boots and moonshiners of merchandise, we present our introduction of MOTIV to the United States with a complete collection of exclusive developments that redefine heritage down to the thread. Marshaling in an era and informed response to mass-production, we are proud to peddle this collection that speaks to the future by honoring our past. One of the reasons MOTIV is so special is in fact because it’s designed and crafted in China, as an example of a transformational return to craftsmanship and a vanguard representation of originality in design from an informed viewpoint in the same way it has taken place in the founding heritage-based nations. As agents of our heritage domain, we’ve become criminals by trafficking raw goods, inspiration, design, and completed garments all over the world in order to bring you MOTIV, a global project of past and future from the East and West as one.
Jason Dean a.k.a. The Consultant
In Possession:
-MOTIV English Hunt Work Jacket - Marling & Evans Natural Wool Herringbone
-MOTIV English Convertible Trouser - Marling & Evans Natural Wool Herringbone
Tracked Est. 1922 New York: Huddersfield, UK - Beijing, CN - Seattle, US
-MOTIV Viberg Shelby Sharp Brogue Boot - Shinki Oiled Natural Horsebutt
Tracked Est. 1910 Birmingham: Hyogo, JP - Victoria, CA - Seattle, US
Kevin Wright a.k.a. Stitches
In Possession:
-MOTIV English Hunt Work Jacket - Brisbane Moss Fawn Corduroy
Tracked Est. 1922 New York: Todmorden, UK - Beijing, CN - Seattle, US
David Wheeler a.k.a. The Instructor
In Possession:
- MOTIV French F-2 Fatigue Jacket - Lovat Mills Charcoal Covert Cloth
Tracked Est. 1955 France: Hawick, UK - Beijing, CN - Seattle, US
Jamie King a.k.a. Needles
In Possession:
-MOTIV French Naval Flight Coat - Halley Stevensons Military Waxed Canvas
Tracked Est. 1942 France: Dundee, UK - Osaka, JP - Beijing, CN - Seattle, US
Kevin O’Neil a.k.a. Dodgy Deputy
In Possession:
-MOTIV Swiss Officer Coat - Marling & Evans Natural Box Weave Wool (TBR 11.19)
-MOTIV English Convertible Trouser - Marling & Evans Natural Wool Herringbone
-MOTIV Viberg Shelby Sharp Brogue Boot - Shinki Oiled Natural Horsebutt
The Event: Thursday, October 10th
MotivMfg MTO: 2pm - 5pm
Anniversary & Capsule Social: 6pm - 8pm
Come celebrate our Anniversary and debut of Division Road’s MOTIV Capsule Collection with era appropriate spirits, hops, and tempos. From 2-5pm, we're presenting a rare Made-to-Order opportunity of select styles and MOTIV collection pieces in limited-edition fabrics with Designer Daniel Gu and caffeination by Scott McMartin's Fundamental Coffee Co. That evening, join us for the celebration of our shop Anniversary with our MOTIV Capsule Collection preview at 6pm-8pm, with refreshments by Copperworks Whiskey and Black Raven Brewing.
